Makeup and beauty expert Kim Weinstein of i am pretty nyc is hosting the fourth installment of the very popular Carnivale de Couture. She asks the following comprehensive question of us writers,
"What was your most/least favorite part/garment/party/celebrity sighting
of The Week and, as a result, are you looking forward to the upcoming
season with anticipation or trepidation?"
I will get to her question at the end. But first I want to explain my perspective with regard to the Carnivale of Couture, or rather, in the case of Fall '06, the carnival of ready-to-wear.
My interest is chiefly the accessories, specifically the jewelry shown with the collections. In the case of the Fall '06 Ready-to-Wear Collections, it seemed more a situation of what was not shown with the collections. With few exceptions, it was difficult to gain any kind of perspective about what trends were coming insofar as jewelry was concerned.
So you might say, "This isn't a jewelry show, it's a clothing show." And I would agree with you upon first glance, except I would remind you that the manner by which most designers make money is by releasing secondary, tertiary and even quarternary fashion lines.
They all sell ready-to-wear high-end, black-label clothing in boutiques and in boutiques within department stores. Then they also have lower-priced clothing in the stores. And then of course they sell shoes, handbags, sunglasses and eyeglasses, scarves and gloves, luggage, fragrance, cosmetics, and jewelry. Basically anything that can be contained in a lucrative licensing agreement.
Some designers, like Marc Jacobs and Luella Bartley, have two separate handbag lines, one more exclusive and pricey than the other. Bartley's secondary line is sold at Target.
I therefore think that if the designers are going to sell these goods, they have an obligation to show them on the runway. For now, Olympus Fashion Week hosts an accessories exhibit and has an accessories director named Lisa Bradkin who knows her stuff. But I challenge you to find anyone in that exhibit whose designs are being paraded on the runway.
Despite my distate for the audacious Kimora Lee Simmons and her low-end pedestrian Baby Phat clothing (seemingly created with the sole purpose of tarting-up and trashing-out pre-teen girls with a "hip-hop lifestyle"), the ready-to-wear Fall '06 Collection she showed last week in New York was shockingly subdued and elegant, and prominently showed her high-end Hello Kitty jewelry.
Of course, the lower-end goods will never make it to the runway, leading some unsuspecting mothers to believe that the Baby Phat they see in Women's Wear Daily is the same Baby Phat being sold at Macy's in the Teen and Girls departments. It is not, to be sure.
In general, and with very few exceptions, designers (Vivienne Tam, Peter Som, Rebecca Taylor, Anna Sui) showed high-necked, handkerchief-scarved, bowed, knotted or ruffled necklines, thus negating the need for ornamental accessory neckwear. The suiting and coats often had fur collars. These rich elements and graceful details were, in my opinion, what resuscitated and saved some of the dreariest colors in the pieces worn on the runway.
However, many designers attended to the direction of the frilly, soft and ornate necklines by simply adding delicate, long earrings, which were decidedly not last year's chandeliers. In the case of Badgley-Mischka's swinging pendulum drops (near left) and Oscar de la Renta (far left)
and Ralph Lauren Women's similar choices (at right) all paired with evening gowns, we can expect this trend to continue. I am particularly fond of this type of graceful enhancement to any ensemble. Depending on the shape of your face and your coloring, you can choose an earring that really compliments your look.
Unfortunately, come Oscar time, we can count on someone in Hollywood, let's just say, the lethal math of a stylist trying to make a name + an unwitting and clueless starlet (any guesses?) to heap about 100 carats of Neil Lane across their bony sternum and not-so-heaving bosom and another 50 carats from their earlobes and plus another 50 on their wrists and hands and let this variation on the timeless and never tired Oscar de la Renta ruffles (at left) or this soft, elegant, ruffled and handkerchiefed gown by J. Mendel (at right) wear them. At most, these gowns warrant a beautiful pair of earrings as above. Period.
There were a few ethnic-inspired pieces incorporating large wooden discs and natural fibers (Tracy Reese, no image available) and some leather cuffs. Designers did seem to want people to wear bracelets, or perhaps watches, because many of the sleeves were either
3/4 or 1/2 length, leaving bare vast acreage of skin begging to be adorned. This trend repeated itself at Carolina Herrera (at left) not only with suits, but also with coats and jackets.
My sense is that bracelets, (in particular, wide cuffs, chunky links, stacked bangles and even a mish-mash of chains and the aforementioned all shown together) will be in demand.
Diane von Furstenberg's "9 to 5"/"Working Girl"-themed collection was a vibrant ray of sunshine in the otherwise drab landscape. Her Fall '06 collection was not shudder-inducing as we might expect considering the theme and music. Mercifully, rather than be fearful of any thinly-veiled threat to return to 80's shoulder pads, it was fun and girly, with right amount of moxie. Diane von Furstenberg showed large, chunky, hammered link bracelets in yellow gold and a bold, sandblasted link bracelet in white gold with a dangling diamond-paved Celtic knot charm (no detail image available) which was truly delightful. DVF herself (at left with Barry Diller) wore the yellow gold version. Unlike many women, DVF wore the bracelet, it didn't wear her.
Only Badgley-Mischka, it would seem, deviated appreciably from the trends . They showed "Y" necklaces (far left), large diamond-paved charm
pendants hanging from a string of faceted beads (second from left), elaborate white, brown and black pave diamonds flowing in waves into an organic jellyfish (?) pendant (center),
a dark red cabochon pendant from a wavy chain (far right) and finally, a number of crosses and flowers hanging from ribbons tied around the neck (right). Though the ribbons are technically a bit dated (so last season - sarcasm), we'd be smart to pay attention to just about anything Badgley-Mischka turns out. They are rarely unstylish, and very rarely make women look bad.
Overall, I predict we will still see many small charm necklaces like last season, the continued return of very yellow, high-carat yellow gold in ethnically-flavored pieces, rose (pinkish) gold gaining momentum, more faceted beads with pendants, briolettes, cabochons, some pearls and generally more color. Colored stones, colored pearls and colored gold. More color.
To wrap up, Kim and i am pretty nyc asked for the best and the worst.
The worst? Luella Bartley's enormous razor blade charm. Charming? I think not. Ick. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.
The best? Ralph Lauren's gorgeous olive fab (not drab), his hammered yellow gold drop earrings on French wires with cabochons, and his pretty-faced, softly made-up, beautifully-tressed models.
(all photos from Style.com)