THE BLING BLOG

May's Birthstone - Emerald

Emerald is the modern-day birthstone for the month of May.

Origin & Facts

The name emerald comes from the Greek smaragdos via the Old French esmeralde.  It basically means "green gemstone."  Sorry, nothing more exotic than that.

The emerald is a member of the beryl family.  The beryl family is comprised of many stones including the aquamarine, pink morganite, rare red bixbite, yellowish-green heliodor and colorless Goshenite.

Emeralds get their fantastic, rich green color from small deposits of chromium, vanadium or iron in the gemstone.  By weight, emeralds are the most valuable gemstone in the world.  The very finest emeralds can be more valuable by weight than diamonds.

However, unlike other types of beryl, which are virtually inclusion-free, emeralds contain inclusions.  Because of these "flaws," their value can decrease accordingly.  Such inclusions generally take the form of cloudiness, feathers, fissures, bubbles or cracks.  On a more positive note, an emerald of a very fine color, but host to many inclusions, is still considered more valuable than a pale, virtually inclusion-free emerald.  Unfortunately, some of the cloudy sections can lessen the saturation and even distribution of the color.

In the case of emeralds, color is truly everything.  Gem dealers even have a term of endearment for a highly-included emerald, calling it jardin, paying homage to the lush and fertile grounds of a garden.

The beryl family has a hardness of 7.5 on the 10 point Mohs scale of hardness.  But this score is mutable and is often decreased in the emerald because of the number and type of inclusions.  This is why the emerald is often referred to as "soft," when in reality it would be very hard indeed if not for the presence of the inclusions.

Emeralds originate from several places on the globe.  However, emeralds found in Zimbabwe are among the oldest gemstones anywhere in the world.  Those emeralds are older than those found in Pakistan which were 9 million years old. Wow!  It is accepted that because emeralds came about during some seriously rough plate tectonic shifting, the inclusions are explained and are not necessarily detractors as long as the color is outstanding.  They did not form quietly.  Therefore very large, very transparent emeralds of very good color are extremely rare.  And extremely pricey.

It is likely that you know of Colombia as the top producer of emeralds.  This smallish South American country has about 150 known deposits, however, not all of them are being mined.  Muzo and Chivor are two very famous sites that were mined by the Incas in pre-Colombian times.  Coscuez, however, produces almost 75% of Colombia's emeralds today.

Colombian emeralds are known for their pure-green color.  This is to say, that the Colombian emeralds lack any blue or yellow tinting or shading.  Because only Columbian emeralds produce this rare and spectacular color, when you buy a Colombian emerald, you are buying for the color.  It may have inclusions, yes, but you've got the color.

Fine, high-quality and vibrantly-colored emeralds are also found in other countries.  In South America, Brazil has an excellent reputation for emeralds.  The Novo Era Mine operation produces emeralds that are nearly indistinguishable from the Colombian emeralds for their desirable green color.  As well, Brazil produces emerald cat's eyes, which are remarkably rare.

In Africa, Zambia and Zimbabwe are accepted as top-quality producers.  Zambian emeralds are darker and often have a blue tint, but offer good transparency.  Zimbabwe's Sadawana Mine is famous for its smaller, but very intense green emeralds with a yellow tint.

Legend, Healing & Folklore

The legends, healing and folkloric tales surrounding the emerald are numerous.

The deep, lively green of the emerald calls to mind nature, enduring love and life itself.  The ancient Romans attributed green to Venus, goddess of beauty and love.  The human eye is attracted to green, and it is said we never tire of seeking greener pastures.  To me, green always seems new and full of life, and is always pleasing to see.

According to legend, the emerald can not only ward off evil spirits, but it can also guard the chastity of the person who wears it.  Emeralds were also indicated in the treatments for myopia, dysentery and epilepsy.

The Incas and the Aztecs of South America, where the emerald is indigenous, regarded the emerald as a holy gemstone.

In India, the Vedas (the holy scriptures) say that the precious green gems possess healing properties,

"Emeralds promise good luck..."

and

"The emerald enhances the well-being..."

Indian royalty, known to us as maharajas and maharanis collected amazing riches and amassed great, heaping piles of treasures.  Among them some of most incredible emeralds known to man were collected, including The Mogul Emerald, the only known emerald of the Mogul Period.

The Mogul Emerald is dated near 1695, is 10cm tall and weighs 217.8 carats.  It is engraved with an intricate floral design including a rosette with poppies and foliage on one side and has an Islamic prayer inscribed on the other.  It was sold at auction five years ago in London for $2.2 million (US) to an unknown buyer.

Because of the numerous historical contexts in which the emerald is found, many specimens have made their way into museums and royal collections.  For example,

The New York Museum of Natural History, for example, has an exhibit in which a cup made of pure emerald which belonged to the Emperor Jehangir is shown next to the 'Patricia', one of the largest Colombian emerald crystals, which weighs 632 carats.

The collection of the Bank of Bogota includes five valuable emerald crystals with weights of between 220 and 1796 carats, and splendid emeralds also form part of the Iranian National Treasury, adorning, for example, the diadem of the former Empress Farah.

The Turkish sultans also loved emeralds.  In Istanbul's Topkapi Palace there are exhibits with items of jewellery, writing-implements and daggers, each lavishly adorned with emeralds and other gems.  (Gemstones.com)   

(note:  I've seen the Topkapi Jewels in Instanbul twice.  I'd go see them again.  AMAZING stuff!)

Insofar as Biblical references are concerned,

According to Rebbenu Bachya, the word "Nofech" in the verse Exodus 28:18 means "Emerald" and was the stone on the Ephod representing the tribe of Judah. According to other commentaries, "Nofech" meant "garnet". Another stone, "Bareqet", representing the tribe of Levi, is instead thought to be the emerald.  (Wikipedia.org)

Further,

The Roman emperor Nero was said to have been so fond of emeralds, that he watched gladiator matches through glasses made from them.  (Wikipedia.org)

Today, the vibrant green is the holy colour of Islam, with many Arab states representing green on their flags.  Green is also held in high regard with the Catholic Church, where it is considered to be very natural, and therefore a basic, elemental liturgical color.

(photo from Gems & Gemology)

Coming Tomorrow: May's Birthstone, The Emerald

Behold the emerald!  Lots to talk about tomorrow.

In the meantime, when you think about color, what comes to mind?  What is your favorite color?

As you know, mine is green.  I like green gemstones, I like green clothing, I like green cars, I like green food.  Okay, not moldy-green food.

If you tell me about your favorite color, I will come up with a comprehensive list of gemstones in that color.  Oh yeah.  Good times.  You know it.

March's Birthstone - Aquamarine

Aquamarine is the modern-day birthstone for the month of March.

Origin & Facts

Aquamarine is a member of the beryl family.  The beryl family is comprised of many stones including the green emerald, pink morganite, rare red bixbite, yellowish-green heliodor and colorless Goshenite.

Most aquamarine comes from Brazil, but it is also mined in Africa (Mozambique, Nigeria, Kenya, Zambia and Tanzania), Madagascar, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Russia.  However, the very finest stones are known as Santa Maria, and come from the Santa Maria de Itabira mine in Brazil.

As well, those stones with a similarly desirable hue come from Mozambique.  They are called Santa Maria Africana.

The Espirito Santo (holy spirit) is another named color of aquamarine from the Brazilian state of the same name.  Its color is not as intense, however.  Other famous regions include Fortaleza and Marambaia.

Perhaps the most famous aquamarine from Santa Maria weighed 26 kg (over 57 lbs) and was cut in Idar-Oberstein, Germany in 1992.  It was the largest aquamarine ever to have been cut.  I saw an absolutely perfect 103.72 carat oval sample of this monolith on display at the Constantin-Wild booth at the AGTA Gem Fair in early February of this year.  Not for sale.

Interestingly enough, the buyers from Tiffany & Company were buying colored gems from the cutters from Idar-Oberstein.  Note to self:  buy well-cut colored stones from the Idar-Oberstein Germans.

Most aquas on the market today are faceted stones, or faceted beads, however they can be cut as cabochons and are known in some cases to produce an asterism.  An asterism is a cat's eye or star effect which can be very pleasing.

Unlike its beryl cousin the emerald, however, aquamarine is nearly completely free of inclusions, making it a favorite of creative stone cutters all over the world.  Without cloudy sections or feathers to concern themselves, cutters are able to fashion exotic new cuts with ease.

This graceful stone ranks a 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale of hardness.  If a diamond is a 10, the aquamarine is slighty softer, but still very hardy and wearable in all forms of jewelry.

Aquamarine Color & Style Today

The name aquamarine is derived from the Latin words for water and sea, aqua and mare.  This birthstone can range in color from a near-colorless almost pale blue through blue-green and teal to the most-valued deep blue aqua color.

It's a deep pale blue, if that makes sense...  the richest expression of light blue possible.  Because of this, nearly all aquas are heated at very high temperature to achieve the deepest, most vibrant and desirable blue color.

Although it's certainly a matter of opinion, my mother and I absolutely adore the sublime beauty of a pale blue-green or teal unheated aquamarine.  It's a color like no other.  However, like a cucumber in brine, once it's heated, the color change is permanent.  And 99% of the aquamarine you will see in stores has been cooked, literally, until it's blue in the face.

There is something really transcendently beautiful about a blue-eyed woman of any age wearing aquamarines.  Can you imagine a soft, simple, flowing gown on a blue-eyed beauty, her neck adorned with a spectacular suite of aquamarines and diamonds?  Wow.  Just as beautiful is the vision of an elegant older woman in a smart pale blue suit, eyes shining from the aquamarine earrings setting off her eye color.

Legend, Healing & Folklore

As for the legends, the folklore and the healing properties associated with aquamarine, there are myriad and all of them are good.  It has classic "true blue" symbolism.  It is beautiful and crystal clear, inspiring trust, harmony, clarity, lucidity and mutual feelings.  And of course, the eternal nature of a clear, blue sky and the heavens.

Further, its natural blue (which is nearly always enhanced as mentioned above) is the result of the presence of iron in the stone.  Therefore, strength is thought to be an added benefit of aquamarine.  It is also said to battle effectively against anxiety in healing properties.

Most compelling, perhaps, is its association with the oceans, mermaids and sailors.  Water is an essentially feminine state, and aquamarine seems to have capture the lucid blue of the oceans.  Some say it originated in the treasure chests belonging to gorgeous mermaids.  It has been regarded as the lucky talisman of sailors since ancient times, thought to ensure safe seas and ward off seasickness.  It makes sense that it is the birthstone of March, the month of Pisces.

February's Birthstone - Amethyst

Most people associate February's birthstone, amethyst, with quartz that is purple in color.  It is not widely known, however, that amethyst also occurs naturally in green and yellow.  We mostly see it in tones ranging from a pale lilac to a deep, rich purple.  As with most colored stones, the deeper the color, the more valuable the stone.  Most amethyst comes from South America (from Uruguay and Bolivia, and from especially large deposits Brazil), but it also is mined in Africa (in Namibia and Zambia) and Australia.

The Greek word "amethystos" literally means "not intoxicated."  Myth tells us that Dionysus, the god of wine (and by virtue of that also the god of intoxication), was one day angry at all mortals and sought to take out his ire on a young mortal maiden named Amethyst.  The huntress Diana turned her into a crystalline stone statue to protect her.  Upon seeing the beauty of the statue, Dionysus cried tears of wine which splashed the figure and turned it purple.

New Age praticioners are fond of amethyst, believing that it guards against addictive behaviors, especially drunkenness.  They also believe in the transformative power of amethyst, its support of inner peace and vision and its spiritual vibrations.

In the Old Testament, Aaron, a high priest of the Jews, wore an amethyst on his breastplate and slept with one to encourage revelation and foresight.

As well, amethyst is thought to be the stone of the bishops in the Catholic Church.  The bishops today still wear an amethyst ring on the second finger of their right hands.

It is also considered by many to be a stone of royalty because of its purple color.  Amethyst is found in the Crown Jewels of England, was favored by Catherine the Great, and was popular in ancient Egypt.

These gorgeous earrings from Bergdorf Goodman (no longer available) are favorites of my friend Kim in New York.                                                                                                        
They are faceted amethyst briolette drop earrings on elegantly-formed gold wires.  I believe they would be just as appropriate for evening as they would be for daytime.

And even if you don't buy into the thinking that they'll protect you from the claws of Dionysus and limited, Earthly and myopic vision, you will look fabulous wearing them.

Guaranteed.

(note:  my new uncle Bill, a clergy member with the Episcopal Church, has mentioned that "according to tradition, Roman Catholic, Episcopal, and Eastern Orthodox bishops wear amethysts in their rings because according to Acts 2:5-15, when the Holy Spirit descended on the apostles at Pentecost, they began to speak in other tongues and prophecy, and some spectators said they were drunk ("filled with new wine"). Peter said, "They are not drunk; they are filled with the Holy Spirit." So the apostles - and their successors the bishops - have worn amethysts ever since to show that they are filled with the Holy Spirit. This is true of bishops in all the Catholic traditions - Roman, Anglican, and Eastern
Orthodox. Originally green stones were customary, but eventually, perhaps because of the association with their princely role, purple became the norm."  Thanks, Bill!)